Your name sir?’ ‘Paul’ ‘I am Kumar. Your hair very good – very nice.’ ‘Thank you Kumar’. ‘Very handsome man’. ‘How kind’. ‘I am stone carver. I carve stone for famous Buddha temple in Exeter.’ ‘I had no idea there was a Buddhist temple in Exeter.’ ‘It new one! You want see my stones? First we go temple – you don’t pay – I don’t do for money, but I see you are nice guy. I know special way. Come. Come….’ And so it began. My ego up, my guard down, and I’d enlisted Andrew and I on another south Asian magical mystery tour. This time, chasing the young stonemason, at rocking speed, around the seventh century rock temples of Mamallupuram. We staggered precariously along ancient steps, ingeniously cut from a titanic piece of granite, recklessly attempting to keep up with the young Kumar, who was practically Simian. We learnt later that this acrobatic detour was in order to circumvent the normal gated entrance, thus avoiding the need to purchase a ticket. An artful piece of dodgery from our new found mate – though we both suspected the relationship may get rockier as the daytime heat began to rocket. ‘How the fuck do we get rid of him now?’ Andrew asked me far too loudly. ‘Oh just chill out a bit – we’re getting a free tour, and free entry’ I countered.  Knowing deep down that we’d be paying for […]

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