THE LOLA BOYS ABROAD !

The trails and tribulations of a dodgy duo!

  • From Siquijor To A Very Sick Whore!

    Siquijor(pronounced – ‘sikihaw’).

    A mysterious island in the southern Philippines. It was to be The Lola Boys next port of call. They took the ferry from the scruffy, but friendly, port of Tagbilaran and headed on a south easterly course across the Bohol Sea, part of the western Pacific.

    Paul adored all this extraneous geographical information. He knew it to be pretentious but he felt it connected him with the seafaring adventurers of old – Drake, Columbus, Magellan and the like.

    Not to mention re-invigorating his youthful Tintin spirit. Whilst travelling it invariably didn’t take long for his inner boyhood hero to re-emerge – despite his approaching middle age and still harbouring an infection that had probably troubled most of the seamen he’d just mentioned.

    Fairly regularly if they’d had a girl (or boy) in every port!

    At his first sight of Siquijor, Paul was entranced.



    She rose from the sea enshrouded with a captivating cover of cumulus, making her at once both inviting and inscrutable. It was said many Filipinos were too afraid to visit the island due to her reputation for black magic. It was certainly true there was a tradition of the occult on Siquijor, many shamans still resided in the interior. These ‘healers’ were part of the reason Paul had added the place to his and Andrew’s itinerary. He was secretly hoping one of them may help Andrew quit the fags.

    The smoking variety.

    To this effect Paul had acted like a witch in the past, but to no avail, he wondered if a witch doctor may do the trick.

    On docking at the port of Larena they took a well earned ‘San Miguel’ at a small shack, whilst they waited for the millennial melee to disperse. They were both used to the routine of a disembarkation by now and Paul usually felt like disembowling most of his fellow passengers. More often than not made up of snooty twenty-somethings with their ringed noses in the air and being far too free with their tattooed elbows, as they fought for their rucksacks as if their privileged lives depended on it.

    Gap year hippies! Most unhip and sporting similar size gaps between their lugholes!

    He knew his infection must be worsening – apparently craziness was a symptom – and he was certainly quick to get mad when the seventh overladen ‘traveller’ nearly knocked him off the quayside with her backpack. She’d obviously forgotten she had it on – or didn’t care. Either or, it was clear that most of the travelling she had done was on the tube. Paul wished at that moment she’d get back underground.

    Six feet under it!

    ‘Oy’, he said in his best cockney, ‘watch it love!’

    The pretty blonde just turned and sneered, looking at Paul with a haughty approbation.

    Oscar Wilde had been so right when he’d said youth was wasted on the young. Many of them clearly didn’t know what to do with it!

    After another beer at ‘Grayson’s’ the panic had died down and Paul felt marginally less bitter. He thought of the young people he knew, who he loved and admired, and remembered it was only a type who behaved so badly – not a generation.

    Grayson was the first and later on, the last Cebuan they had met on Siquijor. A charmingly gruff ex-merchant navy man, who had sailed the world. He told them salty tales of his time aboard exploration ships down in the Antarctic. And even saucier stories of his time working on tankers in and out of Rotterdam.

    He had been everywhere and then retired to his homeland to run a tiny bar, which covered for a gambling den out back. Middle aged ladies and rough old men rattled their mah jong tiles in the back room, nodding politely to Paul as he made his way past them to the little boy’s room.

    It was quite a scene.

    After a bumpy trike ride across the island the boys hit the western town of San Juan. Their digs were modest to say the least. The ubiquitous rock hard bed which seemed de rigeur throughout the Philippines, and a toilet with a life of it’s own. It belched and spluttered harder than a Coronavirus patient. The only way to beat the cistern was to turn it off!

    But ‘Czars’, (pronounced Caesar’s), was cheap and it had a pool. Even if it didn’t look as if it’d been cleaned since Roman Times. Paul knew at once there would be no morning dip in such a stagnant mess, or his mother may have to dip into mourning.

    It looked deadly.

    A much healthier option was the ocean.

    The sea surrounding Siquijor was crystal clear. It was superb for snorkelling and both Paul and Andrew took advantage. Unfortunately Andrew encountered what he later discovered to be a highly venemous sea snake on his first outing, which slightly curtailed his oceanic adventure.

    He never went back in!

    Choosing instead to relax and write new lyrics for the act at a superbly positioned coffee shop on the water’s edge.

    The small establishment was managed by a Geordie called Kevin.

    Once Kevin had established Andrew and Paul’s nationality he had regaled them with tales of his past.

    He had been in the navy, worked as a social worker and had been Judy Garland’s daughter’s limo driver for years. Not Liza Minnelli he’d added – apparently he had once pissed her off by calling her Lisa with an ‘s’ instead of Liza with a ‘Z’. When recounting the tale he’d still managed to call her ‘Leeza’.

    No wonder she’d  grown weary.

    But Kevin seemed interesting enough, even if some of his anecdotes had a whiff of the ‘Cost Del Bullshit’ about them.

    He offered to drive the boys to the other side of the island to swim with the Thresher Sharks and the vast swirling schools of Sardine which teemed in the deep water there.

    It was an offer they couldn’t refuse.

    Although Andrew did manage to refuse it the following day when he’d gone off the idea. The incident with the sea snake, and the re-surfacing of a near-fatal snorkelling incident off The Gili Isles in Indonesia, (during which he had only just managed to re-surface), had jellied his sea-legs. Which were hardly robust in the best conditions. So Paul embarked with Kevin alone.

    The trip did not turn out as promised. The only shark Paul encountered on the expedition had been Kevin.

    It transpired that Kevin was on the hunt for sausage.

    Not Paul’s kind.

    Thankfully!

    But Bratwurst of the German kind.

    It so happened that before heading to the marine sanctuary, they were to go in search of a small business which stocked charcuterie hidden somewhere in the centre of the island.

    After calling at a remote Dragonfruit farm, where the bemused farmers were quite non-plussed by Kevin’s demands for directions, they stopped at several small chicken feed stores.


    Kevin once again barked rudely at the proprietors- repeating the words ‘German’ and ‘Sausage’ over and over again. Each time louder, as if volume would make up for his lack of language skills. The search continued until eventually he’d managed to contact the sausage seller, via his mobile, and she agreed to come and meet them at the general store. Which was generally in the middle of nowhere.

    After an age the irregular choking of a moped was heard in the distance and two young Filipinos rolled up on their bike. The girl, who was very beautiful, alighted with a dazzling smile and came towards us.

    ‘Your directions were terrible. Shit! It wasn’t five hundred metres passed the ‘Banta’ Tree was it?! More like two kilometres!’ Kevin shouted hoarsely.

    His voice possessed a hoarse, north eastern gravel – Paul had summised that he probably shouted a lot.

    The girl laughed.

    ‘Like five hundred, maybe one kilometre’,  she giggled. Distance obviously wasn’t her thing – politeness certainly was.

    The Filipinos hated to lose face, and she was more than a match for the red faced British pensioner who was screaming at her.

    She got into the passenger seat as Paul was relegated to the back, just like Lorna Luft, ‘the other daughter of Judy Garland’, as Kevin had described her.

    Kevin’s ex-ride. On the left!

    They bumped along a dirt track, whilst Kevin continued to moan on about the mileage. The sausage girl held her cool coupled up in the front of Kevin’s banger with him banging on.

    Paul, meanwhile, was beginning to have steam coming out of his ears. He could quite happily have mashed Kevin up along with his stupid bangers. He loathed rudeness, especially when accompanied with a racist superiority.

    They pulled up on the dusty track next to a bored bull and then hiked the last part of the way, eventually arriving at a hut perched on a hill.

    A young boy strummed a guitar, another fiddled with his hose. The whole scenario felt horribly illicit. Like some dodgy drug deal. Maybe President Duterte didn’t approve of German sausage.

    He was terribly fussy.

    They were shown into a small kitchen where there, finally, nestled in the corner, stood a fridge.

    The refrigerator.

    It had a small freezer section which, when opened, revealed a small selection of German sausage.

    ‘How much are they?’ Kevin rasped urgently.

    ‘All different’ said the sausage girl, ‘look on the board.’

    Paul had already noticed the sign on the kitchen wall, but Kevin was obviously short sighted as well as short tempered. He turned to read the menu which listed quite a selection.

    Bratwurst and Knackwurst and Bockwurst and Teewurst. Doorbells and sleighbells and Scnitzel with noodles. Brown paper packages tied up with string. These were a few of Kev’s favourite things!

    ‘What are those?’ he asked. Pointing a a packet of the fattest sausages Paul had ever seen.

    ‘Bratwurst’ replied the lovely ham hawker.

    ‘And those litt’l ones?’ asked Kevin in his best Geordie.

    ‘Knackwurst.’

    ‘And those long ones?’

    ‘Teewurst’! She answered now, with just a hint of exasperation.

    This went on for at least ten minutes as Kevin ponderously picked his pork!


    Eventually his decision was made.

    ‘I’ll take four of the big ones and eight of the small ones’!

    Not a please in sight.

    Paul was aghast. Had they really come all this way, and gone through a hard core negotiation on price, only to purchase a dozen bloody bangers?

    He was beginning to lose his cool. But as the poor meat vendor held onto hers he did the same. And Paul still thought it kind of his host to be taking him to swim with the sharks.

    As they got back to the main road which circumnavigated the island Kevin seemed rather pleased with himself.

    ‘I’ll try them out tonight for supper and if they’re any good I’ll come back and get some for me sausage and chips night. You and Andrew will be coming won’t you!’

    It was more an order than a question.

    ‘Of course’, Paul said. Though he really couldn’t give a sausage. He was more interested in the sardines he’d been promised.

    As they turned a sharp corner with slightly too much speed, the fabulously blue Pacific flooded the horizon. White horses danced atop an azure racetrack. It was what Paul had been waiting for.

    But suddenly all bets were off.

    ‘No. They’ll be no snorkelling today,’ Kevin announced. ‘It’s too rough. I thought as much.’

    Paul’s temper was beginning to sizzle – like twelve sausages in a pan.

    ‘I’ll take you to the marine sanctuary anyway as we’ve gotta go past on the way to the hyper market.’

    They stopped at the aforementioned sanctuary for a few minutes, where Paul’s chauffeur pointed out where they would have been able to swim had conditions permitted. Kevin then went off and shouted at a couple of the guides who were laying on hammocks, chilling out on their day off.

    Paul escaped for a moment, saying he needed a piss. Really he was so pissed off with Kevin he needed some escape.

    He made his way along the virgin sand towards a mangrove swamp and took a few moments to let off steam. The situation was beautiful so it was quite easy.

    He then returned to the car and drove with Kevin to the ‘hypermarket’.


    He didn’t look inside Kev’s basket he was not interested. Instead he bought himself a beer and a two quid bottle of gin to take back to Andrew. By the time they had made a complete circle of the island the beer, and half of the gin had been finished.

    ‘Did you have a good time?, asked Andrew. ‘What were the sharks like?’

    ‘We didn’t see them’ Paul replied dryly. ‘We went on a sausage hunt instead. Want some gin?’

    ‘What d’you mean?’ asked Paul’s puzzled partner. But Kevin had come back into the shack after decanting his produce and was eyeing up Andrew’s beer bottles on the table. Ale he had purchased from the shop outside as Kevin’s gaff had been closed.

    ‘You both want another beer?’ he growled.

    It was not a question!

    They accepted the threat and Paul went and sat at a table on the beach to begin his blog. He could hear Kevin’s monologue rasping along the beach as Andrew sat and laughed in the right places.

    Paul then listened as Kevin broke off from his sausage speech and berated a young member of his Filipino staff concerning the price of the lager he’d sent her to purchase.

    ‘Why is it more than last week? D’you know what I’ve spent? Take it back and tell them I don’t want it. Is it the colour of me skin? Tell them I won’t buy anymore’ etc.etc.

    This went on for far too long. Paul could not see the young girl but he imagined her reaction. Indeed, Andrew had told him later that the poor thing had almost burst into tears.

    ‘Right that’s it’, Paul said, ‘he can stick his sausages up his arse. Rude bastard. I’m not going.’

    ‘I don’t wanna go either’, said Andrew, ‘I don’t even want sausages and chips. And he’s telling everyone we’re gonna do a bloody cabaret!’

    ‘Fuck him!’ Paul snarled. And the decision was made.

    The next night, when it got to the sausageing hour, the heavens just happened to open. A torrential downpour direct from nature’s gravy boat flooded the entire town for hours. And to make matters better, there was a blackout. The power went down for as far as the eye could see.

    Paul and Andrew sat undercover with a flickering candle and just the sound of the rain pelting down like liquid bullets against the tin roof.

    There was no karaoke.

    No Phil Collins blaring out.

    No sausage night!

    Against all odds there was just silence.

    And the odd toad coming out of his hole to step up to the plate and give a loud croak.

    It was bliss.

    The following morning, Paul and Andrew bounced along Siquijor’s interior in a tricycle, making their way to the port. Paul’s prostate was rattling along with the non-existent suspension, as he attempted to suspend himself using the handgrips on the cab’s roof. They were about to head north, and he could feel his infection doing the same –  straight for his kidneys. Shit, he knew he would have to do something when they got to Cebu City. At least there would be a doctor there – preferable to the ‘Tenko’ like clinic he had avoided on Siquijor.

    They got to Cebu City after nearly five hours on the ferry. At least the waters had been calmer than Paul’s.

    The city was most unappealing – it’s inhabitants less so. They were so likeable. All of Cebu City’s citizens Paul and Andrew came across were polite and happy. Each one could not do enough to make them welcome.

    That evening, they hit the casino. As per usual in such insalubrious gaming halls some of it’s guests were on an entirely different game. As Paul and Andrew hit the slot machines they were surrounded by a plethora of prostitutes hoping they would fill their slots with a little cash too. Paul found it rather fun. They were pleasant girls and he brought a couple of them a beer, much to Andrew’s chagrin, as he loathed being bothered whilst playing slots.

    Especially by those selling theirs!

    But after Paul explained to them that they weren’t quite his type, they left. After a long while though. They seemed to enjoy the company. And Paul didn’t mind. They were prettier to look at than the balance on his machine which went down quicker than any of his companions had had a chance to.

    The next day Paul woke in agony. His kidneys seemed rather annoyed with him that he hadn’t made the effort to have them seen to earlier. He now knew it to have been a mistake too.

    He went, accompanied by Andrew, to the pharmacy to get another course of antibiotics. Quite wisely, the pharmacist would not give them to him without a doctor’s prescription. Not even for a bung, which was not always the case in the part of the world in which they were travelling. She instead directed Paul to the local ‘A & E’ where she said they would help him.

    Paul was loathe to disturb the emergency room, especially on Sunday, but his kidneys had other ideas, and eventually screamed him into submission.

    The nurse at the hospital was wonderful. He directed Paul to a back street clinic across the road. Although it had appeared a touch ‘Vera Drake’, the young GP had been superb. He examined Paul, thoroughly, and made his diagnosis. Not only would Paul need some anti-biotics – he would also need a strong intravenous, intra-muscular dose immediately too. Paul was unamused, until the doc added that his partner would need to be treated as well, as ‘she’ had obviously passed the infection back to Paul.

    ‘It’s a he’, Paul corrected the GP, in case that made a difference. The GP, named Bimbo, beamed.

    ‘Oh great. Good.’ He smiled,’I am gay too.’

    ‘Oh lovely,’ Paul replied. ‘You must come and work in England.’He continued inexplicably.

    ‘Oh yes. I would like to’ said the handsome young Filipino.

    They giggled again and Bimbo wrote out the instructions for the hospital, who he said would be more than happy to give the injection.

    Back at the ‘A & E’ department, worryingly sandwiched between spluttering patients, Paul and Andrew sat and awaited their turn. As a fat woman on a trolley, her ankles black and struggling for breath, was wheeled past, they were approached by the same young male nurse who had sent them to the clinic.

    He had read Dr Bimbo’s instructions and was ready to go into action.

    ‘I’ll go first’ said Paul to his partner, ‘after all, you did give it to me!’

    ‘I’ll start with you’ the nurse said to Andrew, who looked at Paul and laughed.

    ‘This is going to be very painful’ the young medic continued.

    Andrew stopped laughing.

    ‘Lift up your shorts’ he continued with an evil smile.

    ‘I thought we were having it in the arm’, Paul piped up.

    ‘No. Too painful’ reassured the youthful professional, ‘better in the leg. It must go into the muscle.’

    With this he lifted what seemed to be a giant hyperdermic needle into view, with what looked like a gallon of liquid antibiotic attached, and proceeded to inject it steadily into Andrew’s left quadricep.

    All of this in full view of an audience of amused locals who watched in utter fascination as the pain began to make it’s way to Andrew’s eek.

    ‘Does it hurt?’ Paul asked.

    ‘Just a bit’ replied Andrew with courageous mendacity. His eyes watering whilst he laughed.

    ‘You next,’ chuckled the armed security guard to Paul, as he too looked on, overtaken with an almost devilish hilarity.

    As the potion began to make itself known to Paul’s body, he too felt the agony Andrew had experienced. He wished he hadn’t watched the whole process, as he now knew exactly how much more was to come. At last he felt the dressing being applied and he knew it was over.

    Almost.

    Both of them attempted to stand, but couldn’t, as they were experiencing what felt like the worst cramp in the world, making it well thigh impossible.

    ‘Sit for a while’, the sadistic nurse laughed. They did as they were told. They were both laughing in agony – it was all they could do.

    It took an age for the pain to deaden until they were left with just a dead leg each. They limped from the taxi into their hotel.

    Jefferson, the charming security guard, took one look at them and burst into fits of laughter.

    ‘Good night at the casino’ he roared. ‘Good to get cure early yeah?’ He guffawed.

    He obviously thought Paul and Andrew had partaken of the tarts wares the previous evening. Apparently they both had the tell-tale ‘Gonorrhoeal Limp’. A complaint obviously well known in local parts and now well known to have affected their parts.

    They spent their remaining time in Cebu City with everyone thinking more than just their numbers had come up at the casino.

    From Siquijor to sicky whores – it had been quite a journey.

    Paul only hoped the medication kicked in, and soon.

    He’d had enough of thinking about curing sausage to last a lifetime!

  • Nuts In Huts!

    Andrew and Paul had waited for over an hour in searing heat on the pier at Tagbilaran, a small scruffy city on the island of Bohol in The Philippines. The taxi which Paul had ordered to collect them had not materialised. Instead, they drank the local ‘Red Horse’ beer with a bunch of local taxi drivers and did impressions of Rod Stewart.

    For some reason Paul had recently been getting a lot of folk telling him he looked like the Scottish rock star. He was kind of thrilled, although Rod was easily old enough to be his father. He presumed the Filipinos only knew Mr Stewart’s early back catalogue – the presumption made him feel better!

    Even if he was kidding himself.

    He was well aware that although he loved travelling it didn’t always love him. Ten quid guest houses with cold showers, concrete beds and cranky fans could play havoc with the complexion. He knew he was not looking his best. Still The Philippines were such an eye opener he didn’t care about the puffy state of his own.

    When he and Andrew eventually got to Nuts Huts, nestled in the jungle clad hills outside the small town of Loboc, they were less than thrilled to see a steep set of stairs which they had to negotiate with their rucksacks and bags. All of which had grown heavier with some of the unnecessary trinketry Paul had accrued along the way. There was also a bottle of cheap gin he had purchased, plus a tin of Spam and two cans of condensed milk which were now beginning to feel like lead – he daren’t tell Andrew about the groceries – he knew what his response would be. Quite rightly. What an earth was he thinking of buying Spam?! But then he knew nothing of the climb down to ‘Nuts Huts’ – one had to be a slight nut taking it on. And completely insane when making the return journey.

    ‘Nuts Huts’had been recommended to Paul by his friend Wendy Colcomb. She was a globe-trotting ex-copper with a penchant for maps. Much like himself. Although he’d never been in the ‘old bill’.

    In fact, he’d been on the wrong side of them a few times during his misspent youth.

    Nothing serious.

    He’d once been arrested for walking out of a sweetshop with an unpaid for double decker.

    The chocolate bar not the bus!

    He had left the stealing of those to his bi-polar father who had once driven the 208, topless and shoeless, through a lady’s wall in Bromley whilst on a high. He’d not been taking his Lithium. She had not been amused.

    The young Paul had also been detained for whipping a theatre poster,(Forty-Second Street!), using a penknife whilst riding an escalator at Chalk Farm tube station – a terribly gay crime if there ever was one.

    And there had also been the incident when he had sung ‘The Laughing Policeman’ to a copper on the underground after being told to shut up whilst he and his National Youth Theatre mates had been singing from ‘The Wiz!’

    The policeman hadn’t laughed!

    Wendy had a much better sense of humour – it was probably why she’d left the force. But she hadn’t mentioned the climb at ‘Nuts Huts’ – her and her partner Graham were obviously slightly fitter than Paul and Andrew. Or they had wanted them both to suffer. Paul made a mental note to interrogate her fully on his return home.

    Paul told Andrew not to kick off about the missing taxi on their arrival at the hilly establishment. The lovely receptionist Lily was most perturbed as it was. She had called the absent taxi driver only to find out that he had been waiting inside the port for over two hours – assuming the boys were alighting from a boat, and not swilling dodgy lager at the pier entrance.

    ‘You’ll have to pay the driver the waiting fee,’ Lily was telling a sweaty Paul, who had no energy to argue due to the intense step class he’d just undertaken. Andrew unfortunately had a little more oomph.

    ‘No! I’m not paying him anything. Why? We didn’t come on a boat. Why did he wait for two hours. Is he stupid? Why didn’t he look for us? We were the only white people there!’

    ‘Andrew!’ Paul chastised. ‘Just leave it!’

    ‘No’, his partner continued breathlessly, the steps now taking their toll, ‘we just paid 700 fucking pesos for a taxi. Why are we gonna pay again?’

    ‘It is a mistake’ pleaded Lily, who was now wilting, ‘I ask taxi driver to come and see you tomorrow.’

    ‘Do that,’ said Paul, with a weary smile, and advised Andrew in no uncertain terms to go and have a fag! He wanted to get to their room. It had been a long day already.

    After a lengthy check-in, he and Andrew made their way down another hundred steps to the riverside.

    He now felt like killing Ms Colcomb!

    All of the huts were named after old movies. They passed ‘A Star Is Born’ which Paul was obviously keen to stay in. Then they struggled on past ‘Moonstruck’ and ‘Mahogany’, which both had obvious appeal to a homosexual. Diana Ross and Cher not being remotely camp!

    The camp was hilarious.

    Eventually they arrived at their new abode. About as far as one could walk. Lily had obviously been displeased with Andrew’s rant. Or they could have been holed up in ‘Moonstruck’ by now – Cherring a beer.

    As they approached the ladder which lead to their small verandah they saw it’s name.

    Their Nut’s Hut was called ‘Nine And A Half Weeks!’



    Paul couldn’t help but laugh. It was highly inappropriate.

    The walls were papyrus thin, with gaps at the top meaning that one was really sharing a room with one’s neighbour. He and Andrew could hear their housemates thinking. It was going to be nothing like ‘Nine And A Half Weeks’ – they would shock the poor gits next door if they had any culinary experimentation.

    And there was no fridge. So Kim Basinger would certainly not have approved.

    But the location was so beautiful.

    The river Peacock Green.


    The paddy fields an emerald hue and the jungle every verdant shade one could describe.

    They spent their days walking to and from town along the riverbank, taking the odd boat trip and sinking beer outside the ‘Seven Eleven’, which seemed to pass for a local.

    It was beautifully bucolic and the people the friendliest they’d come across in The Philippines- and that was saying something.




    On one particularly steamy afternoon, the boys got stuck outside their local ‘Seven Eleven’ munching on cheap sponge cake and guzzling ‘Red Horse’. A strong and cheap ale with an equally cheap taste.



    They made friends with a Filipino guy called ‘Winny’ who told them of his exploits in Vegas. He had apparently been the famous taxi driver who had ferried the injured folk to hospital after the mass shooting at ‘The Mandalay Bay’ hotel in 2017. Winny had become quite a celebrity. Although Paul and Andrew remembered the hideous event, neither could recall the identity of the hero cabbie. They knew there had been one, courtesy of the BBC, but would never have recognised him in a month of Sundays. A day that was very important in The Philippines. But Winny seemed genuine so they took him at his word – and the words were terribly interesting. He had rescued six people whilst being fired upon himself. The police took cover as he ran into danger to save lives. The story seemed unbelievable, but Paul checked Winny out online later on. The power of the ‘intermittentnet’ was often quite marvellous. And it turned out Winny was truely a local hero.

    Paul had been glad to shake his hand.

    On their final day in Loboc, Paul and Andrew found themselves stranded with their usual junk on the wrong side of the river. There was no boatman in sight, and with the light dying fast, there was nothing to do but chance the current.



    Paul stripped off and clumsily climbed into the river. It was like bath water. He felt something riverine moving beneath his feet but kept his mind from it. He didn’t want to know what lay beneath. He swam swiftly over to the opposite bank with Andrew filming him and offering unnecessary advice on his stroke. At one point he thought he might have one. He did not enjoy being out of his depth since nearly drowning on Ipanema Beach in Rio.

    That had been no carnival.

    But he managed to pluck some confidence from somewhere and made for a canoe type of craft that was moored up and paddled it over to rescue his partner, with yet more nautical advice being shouted from Andrew onshore. Paul eventually managed to get them both back to the right side of the river and in a fairly dry condition. He tied the line to the wooden jetty using a sheepshank knot – his nautical school days sometimes came in useful. And he didn’t want to be in trouble for ‘borrowing’ a craft that wasn’t his. The ferryman usually charged ten pesos for his services so Paul thought they’d been a touch cheeky. But then again – he hadn’t been anywhere on the horizon. So Paul really had no choice but to take piratical action. He and Andrew had been stranded on the wrong side of the creek without a paddle, and both in the same boat. So there was no option but to steal one for a few minutes.

    The following day, the boys made their way up the hundreds of steps, cursing Ms Colcomb, and waited again under the sultry sky, for a taxi which again didn’t turn up.

    It eventually turned out that the driver was waiting for them on the highway, a kilometre down the road.

    A rocky, rocky, road.

    Long and winding. And hot!

    The boys set off along it to find their ride. Thankfully, halfway along the strenuous walk they caught sight of their taxi – reversing steadily along the tricky lane. It was a sight for sore thighs! They jumped in with relief and headed back to the port. ‘Nuts Huts’ had been quite an adventure.

    They were now seated in comfortable ferry seats on the way to Siquijor.

    An island awash with witch doctors and wildlife. They couldn’t wait.

    The Philippines continued to be an absolute delight.

    Paul made a note to thank P.C. Colcomb on his return home.

    She’d given him a superb recommendation- it was a fair cop!

    Or rather – she was.

     

  • Hashtag Him Too!

    Paul and Andrew arrived in The Philippines with a bang. Literally! Their small plane hit the equally tiny runway with such force that Paul had expected the ‘Brace. Brace’ command at any second. Luckily the reverse thrust kicked into overdrive and they managed to stay on the tarmac – just.

    The boys had eventually arrived in Bohol. The tenth largest island in the Filipino Archipelago – far south of Manila towards the equator. Home to the Tarsier and ‘The Chocolate Hills’, plus countless typhoons and earthquakes. It had taken them twenty four hours to complete the journey.

    Three flights, four fights and countless shites.

    Something had obviously not agreed with them prior to boarding in the northern Thai city of Nan.

    A delay, which necessitated a layover of nearly twelve hours at the completely undomesticated ‘Domestic Terminal’ at Manila’s airport, had not helped. They had queued for hours amid masked bores with minimal manners. It had stretched both their patience as well as their bowels!

    Andrew had made the situation somewhat worse by insisting on calling Bohol – ‘Butthole!’ Paul knew his partner was on the wind up, but had to call on his last reserves of energy to find it remotely amusing.

    At times he found it difficult to carry on when Andrew’s ‘Carry-On’ humour was so relentless! He knew it was probably his own lack of humour which caused this impatience – but only probably!

    Thankfully, The Philippines more than matched up to their expectations.

    Within the first few hours of their arrival, Paul and Andrew knew it had been worth the hours of aviation. The island of Bohol was paradisiacal. Palms and orchids lined the scruffy lanes. The beaches were white and soft as talc and the sea cerulean blue. The natives too could not have been more welcoming.

    The inhabitants obviously had a love of music as there seemed to be singers everywhere. In the shops, on the streets, scattered along the beaches, everyone seemed to be singing a tune. The devastating earthquake of 2013 which had almost flattened the island had not destroyed the people’s love of life. The place was a hum with musicality.

    Guitars strummed through the tropical night and even the karaoke was charming. Paul often didn’t find this to be the case on the Costa Del Sol, where ‘karaoNOke’ was the order of the night as far as he was concerned. But in The Philippines the joy sung through.

    Nobody seemed to want to be a star, only sing to them.

    Even when their intonation was less than perfect, which was fairly rare, it was still bearable. The sheer joy was infectious. When he and Andrew were woken at 6.30am with a tuneless version of a Whitney Houston classic they could not help but laugh. It had been the lad’s birthday after all.

    It was music to their ears.

    More discordant was the poverty that was at once evident. After being in Thailand, where begging was relatively rare, the almost ‘Dickensian’ scenes on Bohol came as a slight shock. Yet only slight, as Paul had done his research and knew there to be much disparity of wealth throughout the whole island chain. It was an unnecessary evil any traveller had to witness when visiting such far flung places, yet it always struck a bad chord.

    Children begged outside the twenty-four hour McDonald’s in Panglao. They were ragamuffins with appeal and were not short of ‘Mcmuffins’ for their trouble. But Paul was troubled, especially when one of the youngsters, who could have been no more than five, rubbed his crotch and said he could touch if he wanted,

    ……. ‘For money!’ He had beamed innocently.

    The mixture of innocence and experience would have shocked even William Blake.

    There was nothing poetic about it.

    But in general he and Andrew’s experience was good. The small island appealed in so many ways.

    One evening, however, after he and his partner’s first proper row of the trip,(it had been nearly eight weeks – so they ain’t done bad!), Andrew had stomped off into the night. There had been a rather clumsy, bare-footed, Kung Fu kick on Paul’s part, so he was not surprised his partner had left to find his kicks elsewhere.

    Unfortunately for him, the locals had been a little too friendly that night.

    Taking a wrong turn, after taking a little too much ‘Red Horse’ lager at 6.9 percent, Andrew had lost a percentage of his wit and had got lost in the coal black night. He staggered along a starlit road, in entirely the wrong direction, towards a fate unknown.

    A friendly young Filipino had come up beside him on his bike and offered the drunken Westerner a lift east. Andrew had taken up the offer, being entirely unaware of his whereabouts and ‘whoseabouts’ at that early hour. He was driven in a direction he had not desired and had become the object of desire to his new found biker pal.

    The motorcycle had pulled up in a dark alley. Unlit and quite off the beaten track. It was here that it’s rider made it clear he wanted to beat Andrew off. Or rather –

    ‘Suck his pee-pee!’

    Andrew had pushed his amorous friend away, only to be roughly rebuffed, as the guy grabbed his genitals inside of his jeans and thrust his tongue hard into his mouth. Andrew pushed his assailant back once again, with a firm but mendacious,

    ‘I have to go back to my wife!’

    The hell’s angel was still having none of it and in a devilish fashion lunged furiously at Andrew once again. Andrew took his attacker’s arm and twisted it hard behind his back causing a help of pain. He repeated again,

    ‘I have to go back to my wife!’

    The guy was not taking no for an answer and reached desperately for Andrew’s balls. Andrew then pushed his randy friend to the dusty ground and staggered off into the blackness. The ardent attacker had apparently realised he had been dancing to the wrong tune and had luckily not come after him, he had been very fortunate to flag down a tricycle and fling himself into it with flabbergasted relief.

    ‘I was gob-raped’, he’d slurred to a practically unconscious Paul, when he eventually found his way home and recounted the sordid tale.

    ‘You probably deserved it’, Paul drawled, his voice thick with unnecessary Valium.

    He was only irked at having been described as a ‘wife’. But he knew he didn’t mean it. The whole episode had obviously been quite a trial for Andrew. And he knew his husband was not the type to be easily shocked. In fact, Andrew had remarked that he may have allowed the situation to continue had his attacker’s breath not been so rancid!

    But Paul knew that Andrew would only hashtag me too had it been a particularly horrible experience.

    In the morning Paul hugged Andrew close.

    He, and his husband were well aware that anything could have happened. He had been incredibly lucky.

    ‘Maybe you’ll think twice before riding on the back of another guy!’

    Paul couldn’t resist.

    But he was secretly relieved that he had Andrew back safe – and almost sound!

    The rest of the time the boys spent on Panglao passed without further drama. There had been an unsavoury incident at a barbecue shack, when a drunken Italian had accused the young waiters of stealing his wad of cash. He had insisted on frisking each of them in turn in a most aggressive manner. Andrew told the inebriated git that he was ‘out of order’ and asked him if he would like to check his pockets too. Paul couldn’t hold back either and stood and offered his body to the drunkard in order to be felt up.

    ‘No you two are ok. It is one of this ones who took it’ he slurred.

    ‘How d’you know that?’ Paul asked.

    ‘I know’, the idiot retorted.

    ‘You’re out of order man’ Andrew remonstrated, ‘would you do this in Europe?’

    The entire situation had had nasty overtones of racism and no money was discovered. The silly sot lurched off on his motorbike – decidedly off key.

    The remainder of the boys stay was happily more melodious.

    The beach was beautiful – even if the tropical downpours were far too regular. The food was unexpectedly exceptional – the ‘Lechon’,(charcoal-smoked pork belly), so brilliant that they had both leched after it continually.

    In fact, Paul had discovered there was nothing better than being porked daily – in the culinary sense of course, and not in the manner which Andrew’s easy rider had had in mind.

    But by far the first and most lasting impression of The Phillipines had been her magical melody.

    The unabashed musical spirit, which nearly all of her people seemed to possess. The desire to belt out a tune – whether good or bad.

    It was unashamedly joyous.

    And for that Paul and Andrew had nothing but gratitude. In the words of those musically industrious Swedes, Benny and Bjorn,

    ‘Thank You For The Music.’

    When it came to The Philippines Paul and Andrew would sing along anytime. For them it was Karaoke all the way.

    Although both of them would probably think twice before thumbing a lift again. Neither had any desire to be played like a bass fiddle by a base fiddler.

    That was entirely unharmonious!

  • A Special Nan!

    Paul and Andrew had made there way further east, they were now residing in the small city of Nan, on the Thai/Laos border. It was an unfashionable town. Not currently on many a traveller’s itinerary – other than the odd Thai or two who visited her odd temples.

    This made the settlement even more likeable and he and Andrew had only been there a day, when they’d both decided they loved the place.

    ‘How d’you spell it?’, Andrew had asked Paul for the umpteenth time.

    ‘ NAN!’ Paul snapped impatiently, ‘Think Catherine Tate!’

    ‘Oh, like Nan,’ Andrew replied.

    ‘Yes – like Nan. Like how I used to call my nan. Nan!’ Paul explained.

    He thought briefly of his late grandmother. He had loved her very much, he still did. She had instilled in him his love for all things theatrical. Much to his father’s chagrin. Nanny Joan would take him into the West End each year on his birthday to see a show. He’d always dreamed that one day he would be performing on The Strand or Shaftesbury Avenue – he knew is was partly down to his Nan that this dream actually came true. Nanny had also regularly taken him and his gorgeous sister to see the pantomime at Richmond Theatre. Paul remembered these times as some of the best moments of his childhood. It had been his nan’s influence that had lead him towards a life on the stage. That, and being a natural show off!

    Joan Dora Irene Clemo had also trod the boards herself. She had been part of a troupe known as ‘The Dainty Dots’ in her youth. During the 1930s Joan had performed in many a panto around the country. Paul loved to hear her stories of her performing days. Especially of her younger sister Olive, who was famously known as ‘Baby Olive’.

    ‘Baby Olive’ was actually thirteen, but for show biz purposes , she was six!

    It just so happened that Paul’s Great Aunty Olive was fortunate enough to be unaturally petite, so when she somersaulted and went into box splits, the audience were mightily impressed that such a child was so gifted. Nanny had told Paul that ‘Baby Olive’ went on for quite a few years. She was certainly no baby by the time ‘The Dainty Dots’ disbanded. And was no doubt not that dainty.

    ‘Baby Olive’ probably had a menstrual cycle as well as a unicycle.

    But, as Paul was well aware, when it came to to show business, Joe Public could rarely spot a thing!

    Now, getting on for nearly a century since his his nan’s birth, the small areoplane left the runway, and Paul looked down as another Nan became a dainty dot. Her few spotlights glittering in the darkness. It had been great getting to know her.

    He and Andrew had meant to stay in the small city for only three nights, but had become so entranced with Nan’s remoteness and charm that they had doubled the length of their stay.

    The city had been so chilled. They had wandered the streets together, visiting temples, eating noodles and laughing with the locals. They appeared to be the only westerners in town.

    The Australian guy who ran their hostel went my the name of Ralph. He was incredibly friendly, even if he did forget what he was saying whilst halfway through a sentence.

    He had given the boys a ride to the national park just north of the town in order that they might visit some caves. Ralph had said that they were unlikely to get lost on the trail. Despite his assurances, Paul and Andrew went way of piste! Luckily not entirely pissed, as this could have been very dangerous.

    The boys had somehow managed to take a wrong turn and had ended up on a small back road in the middle of absolutely nowhere. The noonday sun blazed down onto them with an intensity that was somewhat unnerving. Paul and Andrew had ran out of water, the only liquid they were carrying came in the form of half a bottle of Aussie Shiraz, which Paul knew was not best in the desiccating circumstances. He told Andrew, who was up for necking the lot, that they would sink it when they were nearly back at the National Park Office.

    Although he had a sinking feeling this may never happen!

    The only way to be sure was to double back the way they’d come and climb back over the mountain. Andrew had wanted to continue down the road into the unknown, but after Paul attempted to flag down three cars to no avail, he too thought it best to take the road they’d travelled. It was, after all, a tad less dangerous than getting lost sans shade, and without any help being proferred by the odd hostile native. Paul imagined these bad Samaritans were probably just scared, bemused at the sight of two sweating falang yomping along a country lane during the hottest part of the day.

    It was only mad Englishmen and dogs that would surely undertake such a trial.

    Andrew eventually relented when he realised there was no other option than to reclimb the mountain, after they ended up at a strange farm come garage come dump.

    A hillbilly pickup truck was parked recklessly on the drive and the place was festooned with boxing gloves and odd looking implements. Andrew had called out for help but to no avail. There had been a touch of clattering from a shack behind a workbench, but nobody appeared.

    The red-hot breeze made the gloves sway menacingly and some chains clanked together with an ominous ring.

    Paul was rather glad the pugilist who resided in the place did not make a peep. There was a definite whiff of Anthony Perkins about the place. He was certain it would be more sensible to risk the rockface again. There was probably enough remaining light – and less risk of a shower scene.

    He hoped they would soon find deliverance on the other side of the mountain – without being fucked, like a piggy by some toothless peasant playing the Thai version of a banjo, on route.

    It was a terribly odd location!

    A couple of hours later, whilst downing the remaining vino, he and Andrew felt mighty glad to have escaped their scrape with just a few scrapes.

    They’d got to realise over the years that some of the Thais were less charming than others. Just like anywhere else in the world. The Land Of Smiles could disguise more than a few wiles. Some of them decidedly unattractive. They had once been threatened with a machete on Koh Lanta – it had only been Paul’s quick wittedness that had put pay to any wickedness. It had been a near miss though.

    They got back to Nan, five hours later than planned, relieved and quite exhausted. Paul fell into a hammock on the rooftop of their hostel. He thought he may never move again. But he knew Nan to be too charming for that. The food and company were too good to miss. So he And Andrew hit the town for the final time. They were heading
    for Manila the following day and wanted to make the best of their remaining time on the town. It had been a wonderful stay. They knew they would return and hoped Nan would not change too much as she grew older.

    Paul had once had a very special nan in his life but he had never once dreamed of finding another. Relatively speaking – he had.

    Nan was a very special place.

    And one stage, when he was not appearing on one, he would make his entrance again.

    But for now it was time he and Andrew made their exuent stage left. Even further east.

    It had come to the stage that they were to make their debut in The Phillipines.

    But Paul knew that neither of them would ever forget Nan.


    ‘Nanny Joan – Stage Right’ ❤️

  • Don’t Say A ‘Phrae’ For Me Now – It’s Too Late!

    Paul and Andrew clambered into the mini-bus in Lampang to embark on a windy journey east. Windy being in the circuitous sense and not the flatulent.

    Thank Buddha!

    For mini was definitely what the van was. It had obviously been built for day-tripping Munchkins. Or perhaps the odd Oompah-Loompah. The antiquated jalopy had certainly not been constructed with any six foot ‘falang’* in mind.

    Along with the discomfort of the vehicle’s bijou interior, Paul was nursing a painful urinary infection, which had been diagnosed, thankfully, by a sweet young Thai pharmacist he had seen on route to the bus station. She had giggled behind her mask as she asked him embarrassing questions about his ‘wee-wee’! Along with the state of his ‘peepee’.

    He’d apparently contracted this complaint whilst staying in Lampang. It had become incredibly painful. An almost debilitating condition sometimes known as ‘Honeymooner’s Disease.’

    Paul could not begin to think why, as there had been no Hankypanky at ‘The Riverside Guesthouse’ – What with it’s paper thin walls! Other, that is, than from the young Italian couple next door who clearly couldn’t help themselves. Paul thought at one moment he could hear the young Romeo ejaculate.

    And he wasn’t talking verbally!

    The lodgings were rickety enough to hear a pin drop, so it was obviously gonna carry when one’s pants did the same.

    So, the day following the young honeymooners stereophonic performance, as the boys bumped into the hills, Paul spent a tortuous three hours squashed between an equally uncomfortable Andrew and the seat barely a foot in front. He was wedged in like pilchard in a tin of sardines!

    Added to this discomfort, he was forced to listen to Andrew’s bleeding headphones as they spewed out ‘Michael Ball’ giving his best ‘Boy From Nowhere’! At one point Paul, with an altogether different kind of ball on his mind, was wishing his husband would go somewhere, but he kept it to himself. He knew Andrew may hit the roof if he complained.

    Literally!

    When the bus arrived at the bus station in Phrae, he knew his knees were bruised to buggery, only the contusions had not yet reached the terminal. They would no doubt appear the following day. He could only pray that his testicles would do the same!

    Phrae was a little town mostly unknown outside of Thailand. One of it’s oldest settlements, dating from 828A.D. Paul hoped, on a wing and a Phrae, that the place would live up to his expectations or Andrew would probably say a prayer for the dying.

    Over his dead body!

    Mercifully, Phrae turned out to be the answer to both their prayers. An absolutely gorgeous little town of twenty thousand souls, who were probably the friendliest they had ever met during their many pilgrimages east.

    The old town had a medieval, walled moat, just as in the more famous Chiang Mai 128 miles to the west. It also had many impressive temples dotted along the little sois and alleys through which one could wander. It did not, however, have the choking traffic of it’s larger neighbour. Nor any of the ‘Eat, Pray, Wank’ brigade, of whom Andrew and Paul were so fond. Thank the Lord there wasn’t a mung bean smoothie in sight. It seemed hardly anyone had become ‘woke’to Phrae. Her charms remained intact. Veiled, like a vestal virgin, in Thailand’s northern land of temples. And for that she became more attractive by the day.

    Her riverside, unlike many he and Andrew had visited in the east, was entirely unspoilt. In fact, Paul might even have described it as underused. There was only a small arboretum on the banks of the Yom river, which made a perfect romantic stroll, even if the thought of any romance couldn’t be further from Paul’s mind. It was the perfect spot for a few guest houses set into the wooded bank. But the locals hadn’t twigged yet. Luckily.


    In his experience once development began in Thailand, the financial enlightenment that appeared with it, came much faster than it had to the Buddha. He hoped that any real commercialism that was bound to arrive in the wonderfully authentic town, was just that. Authentic. Sensitive. There was certainly some beauty to preserve. And he knew there to be quite a bit of cash to be made out of the natural. Not everyone wanted to stay in a concrete monstrosity with a pool and a gym. But Paul was well aware cash was King.

    But sshhhh! In the Land Of Smiles one wasn’t allowed to mention the ‘k%#g’!

    Admittedly the ‘hotel’ they had checked into was not quite as beautiful and could herself have done with a covering here and there.

    It was a gigantic, teakwood house that was almost empty, apart from the boys and two charming Sikh gentleman who just happened to be in the room next door. Paul supposed it was easier for the old boy that ran the place to put his guests close together for cleaning purposes. But as no room service appeared to occur in the faded mansion he knew that not to be case. Perhaps, he had pondered, they were the only two available rooms out of the fifty or so which hid beneath a layer of dust. It was a touch ghostly. But after the blithe spirits which seemed to have haunted their last digs in Lampang, it was nothing but heavenly. And at least they had walls within which to moan. Unfortunately with pain rather than pleasure.

    After two days the antibiotics had still not kicked in, and Paul was almost thinking of returning to Lampang just to kick the giggling bitch who’d dispensed them. He felt like dispensing with her it was so sore. But he gave her the benefit of the doubt. She had been so lovely and had seemed entirely professional.

    Downstairs at the mansion there was a spacious communal area in which to try and relax. This was not altogether easy as all the furniture was made of solid teakwood.

    When Paul had perched on the lone seat furnished with the only cushion, the friendly old proprietor ambled over to him, and with a wooden-toothed smile, pulled it sharply from beneath his posterior. Paul’s prostate hit the rock hard surface with such force he thought he may never get wood again. He smiled through the agony, as he realised this was the pillow on which the ancient gentleman both sat and slept. So, in an almost saintly manner, he forgave him. Although it wan’t the sign of the cross he made when the old geezer’s back was turned!

    Andrew had remarked that the solid wood furniture would be worth a fortune back in the West. There was a veritable forest of it planted throughout the ground floor.

    ‘They don’t know what they’re sitting on’ he had remarked to Paul one steamy afternoon’

    ‘No they don’t. But I know what I’m fucking sitting on’, Paul had retorted.

    The ache in his groin having remained unabated, and only worsened by the solid quality of the furniture on which he sat.

    He thought he may lobby the old fella to provide another cushion for the lobby. He tried, but to no avail.

    One of the many charms of Phrae’s beautiful remoteness was that hardly any of her inhabitants remotely spoke any of that beautiful language: English! Paul’s Thai was rudimentary, to say the least, and his vocabulary definitely did not stretch to words such as, pillow; pain; or prostate!

    In Phrae,(which by now Paul hoped his readers had worked out was pronounced prayer), Paul and Andrew appeared to be the only westerners in town. They hit the small night market with gastronomic gusto. Sampling any regional dish which they had not come across before.

    Some were delightful, such as the Kow Som, a delicious rice and tomato concoction. Simple – yet addictive.

    Others like Jin Sot, a mixture of pig’s blood and cow bile.

    Simply – vile!

    Yet, as Paul knew, if one could stomach it, it was delicious. He’d had a slurp – but it wasn’t for him. He made enough bile of his own thank you very much. But he and Andrew would try anything once, and sometimes once again in case they’d acquired the taste for it. One never knew what could pleasure the tongue unless they had a go at least twice!

    They strolled atop the ruins of the ancient city wall, shaded by the few remaining teak. Paul preferred the stuff upright and alive, rather than horizontal and dead uncomfortable. Once the magnificent tree had been as ubiquitous as bamboo throughout the region. But during the colonial era, the East Indies company, and others, had yelled timber to that and now there were only pockets of forest remaining. The cutting down of Phrae’s surrounding woods had been banned in the 1960s. But not before most of it had before most of it had suffered the chop. Hence the price of second-hand teak furtinure. Andrew was correct when he’d said Paul had been sitting on a small fortune.

    But then Paul had always known that!

    The boys were having a ball in Phrae, sadly Paul’s urinary infection was doing just the same. And in the very same region. He had resisted alcohol for the last two days, which was no mean feat, as Andrew was sinking beer at the rate of a Belfast dockworker!

    One night, after Paul had retired with a painkiller, one of the friendly Indian chaps came and joined him on the sort of verandah. He sidled up close and then asked in a conspiratorial whisper if he required a ‘Ladyboy’? Andrew had politely declined. Or so he told Paul the next morning! Paul only wished he had been there to enjoy the comedic moment. Early nights were not his thing.

    This illness was beginning to grate.

    He did a little research into the anti-biotic he was taking and discovered a little ale would apparently not impede it’s efficacy. So without further hesitation he reached for a bottle of ‘Chang’ to soothe his ailing groin.

    It couldn’t hurt could it?

    Well – not anymore than it bloody did!

    He said a prayer and took a sip.

    He was beginning to feel better already!

    *’Farang’ – A Thai word for westerners generically referring to non-asians. Generally used without derogatory connotation, derived from the Thai word “farangsayt” for French. Or another definition, as Paul had discovered long ago – ‘triple the price!’ But not in Phrae.

  • As Paul headed towards the lavatory on the plane, taking he and Andrew to the north of Thailand, all he could see was a sea of paranoid eyes. Everyone on the aircraft was covered up, as if attending a masquerade ball.

    Other than he and Andrew.

    They had just left from a provincial airport to which the Thai nationals just evacuated from the virus -hit city of Wuhan were just about to arrive. The boys had had to pick their way through cameramen and press past an army of reporters to even board the flight.

    Paul couldn’t entirely mask the fact that he was a little nervous now, but he’d always come from the school of thought that when one’s time was up it was just that. So he was only concerned for a couple of minutes.

    A few Bloody Marys sorted out any residual fear he may have had, as he looked at the paranoia surrounding him.

    Bloody Marys! He thought to himself.

    He and Andrew were heading to the hills. Paul thought it best to escape from the city and hang out with the hill-tribes. They were making for a small, riverine town where there were very few, if any tourists. In fact, there wasn’t really anything to do their either.

    But hang out.

    They were both pretty successful at that. And he had a good book and an equally good imagination, so he knew he and Andrew could get up to something.

    They bade au revoir to Dang, their jovial landlady for the past few days, sad to leave her beautiful Chiang Mai garden.

    Paul had firstly gone to pay he and Andrew’s bar bill – joking that it would probably be quite high.

    ‘Why not?’ he had said, ‘Holiday.’

    ‘Yes,’ she laughed, ‘whole of day, and whole of night!’

    Paul went on to clarify,

    ‘No. Holiday. We are on holiday!’

    Much hilarity ensued. Dang had no idea she had probably just written the best line in his blog!

    The journey eastwards to Lampang, did not go quite as smoothly as planned. Mainly because Andrew had slipped into Quentin Tarantino mode and was filming Paul at every given opportunity. Paul had not eaten, and after a bumpy Song-thaew ride through Chiang Mai’s less salubrious suburbs, he was suffering from the ‘Hanger Virus!’ That horrible combination of hunger and anger that often made him ready to kill.

    If he didn’t get curry in a hurry he was ready to commit Harikari!

    Only not on himself!

    ‘Will you fuck off with that camera’ he snarled at Andrew, who had just asked him for the eighth time ‘what was happening?’

    It didn’t help that Paul had stood in a queue for an hour only to be redirected to another window by a drab looking Thai woman with thin hair.

    ‘No have. No have’, she intoned atonally. He was not best pleased.

    He felt marginally better after eating, but then Andrew had continued with his documentary skills, on the wind up. Also managing to avoid carrying any of the rucksacks due to his filming technique.

    When they eventually arrived at the correct bus platform, the conductress snatched his tickets from him and commanded he stow his bags and ‘get on bus’. She was obviously suffering from ‘Hanger’ too, though one would never have known by looking at her!

    Paul was drowsy on the bus, due to the Dramamine he’d popped earlier. A necessary precaution unfortunately, due to the predilection he had to vomit at the slightest turn. Sometimes it even happened when he himself was at the wheel. He had never grown out of it.

    Andrew took good advantage of this malady, and slyly filmed him whilst dozing and drawling like an unattractive toddler. The wheels of the bus were going round and round as Andrew’s camera turned with them. Later when Paul saw the video, he couldn’t help but be amused.

    Although he looked a sight for very sore eyes.

    (See thelolaboys YouTube channel if you don’t believe me!)

    When they hit Lampang they both wondered why they’d undertaken the journey in the first place. It looked like any ordinary provincial Thai city. Although more shabby, and the townsfolk less charming. A shithole, Andrew had called the place with less pretension.

    Paul had read, in one of his pretentious moods, that the place had been cursed. Some king or other had accidentally whipped off a Goddesses head, as you do, and she had taken umbrage. Rightly so.

    Even with no bonce!

    She cursed the town for eternity. To this day, many of the city’s dwellers apparently believed this ancient folklore. On first impressions Paul was starting to believe it to – it seemed a cursed place.

    However, when they arrived at the beautiful ‘Riverside Guesthouse’, things took a turn for the better.

    The old teak house was utterly beguiling. ‘An-teak’ furniture filled every nook and cranny, and a languid river flowed past it’s gorgeously planted garden.

    The boys’room, instead of having just the usual bed and hanging rail, was also stuffed with old memorabilia. A bureau; a writing desk; and best of all, their own bathroom.

    For the previous few nights they had been sharing that utility with a group of masked travellers. It had been a touch disconcerting – though cheap. Paul and Andrew had decided, that from now on during their travels, they would plump for their own bog. It seemed the wisest thing to do in the current viral situation. It was bad enough sharing with Andrew, who could barely manage a lid and quite often forgot to flush!

    Their host at their latest digs was Lorenza. She was gorgeous. She explained that she was half Italian, her other half coming from Belgium. Although she didn’t appear to have another ‘arf, running the place alone along with her brilliant staff. It seemed she spoke about 127 languages, conversing with her international guests fluently and with such grace.

    And what guests they were. Incredibly cosmopolitan. Americans, Europeans, interesting folk from all over the globe who had discovered this special place.

    Lorenza seemed to attract the right kind of traveller. She also laughed with her team of workers in the most perfect Thai. Everyone in the place seemed content. Not cursed at all.

    Until night fell.

    The sun dropped fast, as she is won’t to do in the tropics where dusk barely made a visit. As they lay in their black, shadowy room, sleep did not come so rapidly. Mosquitos buzzed around them as they hid their ‘deetless’ bodies neath the covers.

    Sweating like pigs in blankets.

    Every noise seemed magnified. A woman was coughing worryingly in a nearby room. A man pissed heavily for what seemed an eternity. There was drunken laughter from a Chinamen who’d been on more than the soy sauce, and who’d been yabbering all bloody day and night.

    Then the howling began!

    It was a full moon and Lampang’s dogs took full advantage. It sounded as if hundreds of them had taken to the streets. Up and down the riverside their tuneless song carried through the torpid air.

    For hours.

    Months to a dog.

    Maybe these canines, with their sixth sense, knew something Paul didn’t. Maybe the place was cursed after all. It was certainly one of the most sleepless nights either of them had ever had. And they’d had a few! The atmosphere fecund with a mysterious essence. The night had never seemed so dark. Paul, for once, was delighted to see the sun rise. He was up a dawn which was usually anathema to him.

    Not in Lampang.

    The following day was he and Andrew’s anniversary. They had been conjoined for twenty eight years after meeting on a touring West End musical. At times it hadn’t always been easy, a curse in fact, but mostly a blessing. As they clinked their bottles of Chang together they looked for a moment into each other’s tired eyes. Paul suspected, after the little sleep they’d had the night before, there would be no renewing of their vows that night. Surely a malediction on such a blessed day.

    ‘Those Bloody Dogs!’ Paul cursed.

    Though not out loud.

    He didn’t want the angry Goddess to overhear him.

  • Just A Small Dose Of Koh Samet!

    The Lola Boys had decided to head back to the north of Thailand. Not because they were remotely scared of the irritating new virus that seemed to have infected everyone with fear, but because they were looking for somewhere more remote.

    Plus they had left a rucksack full of toiletries at a small guest house in Chiang Mai and Paul was missing his conditioner and a couple of face masks.

    Not the viral kind.

    In fact the whole ‘masking up’ business was beginning to pall Paul. The only facewear he’d ever contemplate attiring was during a sex game.

    At least that was more effective than sticking a bit of bog paper over one’s eek!

    Anyway, as he’d mentioned in his previous blog, he believed he and Andrew had earnt ‘symptomatic immunity’. They’d been in many an embassy over the years – and smoked more than a few.

    Paul had once played at the British Consulate in Hong Kong.

    It had been a riot.

    Especially as the ‘dressing room’ doubled as the library. A ‘Cluedoesque’ affair containing a drinks cabinet to die for. He, and some of the company he’d been travelling with, had helped themselves to quite a bit of the claret not on offer. Miss Scarlett would definitely have approved, though their uppity company manager, a veritable Mrs White, would certainly have been more disparaging.

    Still, Paul had paid his taxes, so surely any ambassadorial alcohol was on the house.

    Or rather, the mansion!

    Sadly, he and Andrew would not be visiting Hong Kong on this trip as they had planned. The ‘Coronavirus’ had now made that almost impossible. They knew they would get in – but maybe not get out.

    And that was never fun!

    Paul and his partner were no cowards – but their travel insurance company was obviously far less cavalier, as they had already advised them not to go.

    Paul also knew he may catch a touch of ‘Hong Kong Fluey’ quicker than the the human guy.

    So they had decided to eschew China, as it now most definitely was, and hit the hills in search of some tribal entertainment.

    Neither of them had ever been to the part of Thailand to which they were heading. Nor had many others by the sound of it. An injection of adventure was needed.

    Koh Samet was stunning, but Paul could only take so many package tourists staring at his package. He had no idea why he was so interesting to them, but they seemed to find him fascinating.

    Like a zoo animal.

    Wild.  Akin to something from a dodgy market in Wuhan!

    It had begun to needle him.

    He was yearning for somewhere less lovely. And less crowded.

    Although he and Andrew had met some wonderful people on the island. Not the locals, they seemed somewhat jaded. Foreigners were quite unforeign to them. They were mostly interested in Andrew and Paul’s ‘Pink Baht’! But the Siberian couple they had partied with in the hut opposite theirs had been utterly charming. Ivan had brought them beer at seven in the morning as a gift … ‘Friendship, friendship’ he had beamed. It was so sweet. As was his wife and their two adorable children, who were accompanying him on his trip.

    ‘You have children?’ he asked Paul and Andrew, after a particularly heavy session on the voddy.

    ‘Niet’, Paul had replied. ‘No time for that.’

    He wondered if Ivan would be less amicable when he worked out the reason why there was no pitter patter of a tiny Misha to occupy his and Andrew’s time.

    But no!

    The car mechanic, from a remote town on the border with Mongolia, was well aware of their relationship. And was not remotely bothered. Remoteness was obviously not a drawback. He needed no ‘Putin’ to dictate to him what constituted a family. As far as he was concerned they were all ‘friends’.

    ‘And dat vos dat! Da?’

    Beautiful.

    It restored Paul’s faith in ‘The Russians’. Their leader obviously did not always represent their true feelings and often made Paul see red. But without the politicians involved, he knew people to be fairly similar.

    Mostly good.

    Apart from some exceptions he knew on the Costa Del Crime. But he knew it would be criminal to mention them. And they weren’t worth the sentence. Only some of them should have been doing one!

    They had also met a wonderful Roman couple, Sara and Philippe or Philippo – who cared? She was an ex-model – quite stunning. Whilst he worked as a physiotherapist to the Italian elite.

    He also had his own attributes.

    Paul and Andrew couldn’t help but notice. And he obviously didn’t mind it when they did. Italian men, Paul had found, generally love to be worshipped. By whomever!

    The pair had been a bundle of fun.

    But it was definitely time for the boys to move on.

    One could have too much of paradise.


    Perhaps grow immune?

    They both needed a little danger.

    A taste of the unknown.

    An antidote to perfection. There were far too many tourists around – Paul had grown anti-body.

    And there were more rubber items in the place than in a Durex factory.

    He knew how to find the cure.

    He and Andrew would travel north.

    Into the the bush. Not literally of course.

    That was the only remedy.

    He hoped he’d found the vaccine!

  • Koh Samet, a small island set in the Gulf of Thailand, was a famous weekend spot for well to do Bangkokians, it was a wonderful escape from the madness of Pattaya. Apparently it had been founded by a band of notorious pirates who had buried their treasure neath it’s silken sands. Paul and Andrew had been on the peaceful island for a few days, now thoroughly chilled, and staying at a boarding house belonging to the very friendly Miss Hong.

    Each morning Miss Hong had greeted them with amusement, laughing hard with a mouthful of broken crockery masquerading as a set of teeth. There was obviously no decent dentist to be found on the island.

    Miss Hong had taken an instant liking to them both when on checking in they had said they did not mind sharing a ‘big bed’. She seemed to find this hilarious and gave them her best room, replete with refrigerator and bedding to kill for.

    Or rather, kill the designer for!

    But it was clean and cheap so they thought the owl bedding a wise move.

    The sunsets on their local beach were truly serene. In the mornings they were woken only by nature and her tropical dawn symphony. The island, just a stonehead’s throw from the mainland, had it’s own micro-climate, being one of the dryest places in Thailand. Even during its rainy season. It was gorgeous. Sunshine, white sands and cheap beer. It certainly wasn’t dry in the ale department.

    Perfect island living.

    Then the weekend came and unmasked an altogether different Sai Keaw Beach, as hundreds of masked Thais arrived onto the silver sand with the urgency of rats from a sinking ship. Revealing their faces only to smoke a cigarette before replacing their surgical face furniture to take in the fresh sea air.

    There were Chinese tourists too.

    Those who had come to celebrate the new year.

    The year of the rat!

    This filled he and Andrew with a slight touch of concern. Neither of them were xenophobic. Nor anti-rodent. Just a touch yellow-bellied. The new virus which had recently been discovered in the Chinese city of Wuhan had already found it’s way to Thailand.

    Although Paul had always wanted to go viral, he didn’t want to become it.

    This new Coronavirus, which had recently broken out wasn’t anything to sniff at.

    ’Rats!’ He thought, they’d had to choose this year to come east.

    He and Andrew had nearly hit South America, but no, they’d headed in quite the opposite direction and towards the brand new epidemic’s epicentre.

    It was so typical.

    As Andrew had often maintained, drama had always plagued Paul. Yet just like one of the Pied Piper’s disciples he had opted to follow him.

    Nearly all, the way to Wuhan!

    Paul only hoped none of the excited crowd had sneaked in from that unfortunate city, he didn’t want to pick up a touch of rat flu along with his tan. Mind you, he knew he was fairly unlikely to contract either. He hardly caught anything successfully anymore – not even a beach ball.

    And Andrew possessed the immune system of a cockroach!

    So Paul and his partner thought they would eschew the masks – just for now. Plus the things were so unsightly. The entire beach looked as if it were playing host to a convention of trainee dentists. Perhaps there was hope for Miss Hong after all.

    Along with the masks and the mayhem, the mass of tourists had imported more inflatables than a Soho sex shop. Flaming flamingoes, dodgy ducks and ugly unicorns bounced on the waves between diesel-revving engines as tour boats manoeuvred in and out of the toddler-teeming surf.

    Paradise had turned into Pandemonium.

    Although it was all terribly jolly.

    Other than the odd cough and splutter!

    Paul thought he now understood how Sai Keaw Beach,(pronounced Psycho), had garnered its name. It was now truly psychotic.

    Like Blackpool on steroids!

    Except the only towers were full of beer and there was no ballroom to be had. Other than within the odd pair of Speedos!

    Dodgy guitar playing filled the starry starry night and in countless karaoke bars, an ’Eagles’ song failed to take flight.

    Fumes clogged the air and he knew that paradise had been postponed, at least until Monday.

    He also knew it was entirely unwise for him and Andrew to attempt to travel anywhere over the lunar festival. They’d be lunatics to try such a thing, as it seemed half of China was on the move. Other than the thirty million poor souls who were now quarantined.

    He and his husband would be going nowhere.

    Not for the time being.

    They were due to leave Miss Hong’s place. It appeared they could pick up a hut for a song around the corner for nearly half the baht, once the new year melee had died off – not literally he hoped.

    Once again ’Diamond Beach’ would become calm. Her crystal waters free of the floating fairground they had now become. He and Andrew would not have to listen to endless, off-key variations of ’Stairway To Heaven’.

    And hopefully, after the menagerie of visitors had vacated the place, not be climbing them! The only Corona they wanted came in bottles.

    They bade Miss Hong so long and moved to their little hut around the corner. Joining those left on the island in watching how the news and the virus developed.

    Only then would they decide where to head next.

    Paul had everything crossed in the Lotus Position.

    Especially his fingers!

  • Sodom And Pattaya!

    Paul and Andrew left the ancient northern city of Chiang Mai and headed south to the incredibly popular and populous city of Pattaya on the Gulf of Thailand. On arrival, it was clear there was more than a gulf of difference between the two urban sprawls. The former retaining an element of class – the latter an abundance of brass!

    Paul had visited Pattaya over two decades earlier whilst performing in ’The Mikado’ on the beautiful QE2 cruise liner. There had been an element of performance too within the city. He and his fellow performers had visited the red light district to experience one of the famous ladies table tennis events which featured each evening – minus the bats.

    And the nets.

    Oh, and the tables.

    The serves were not conventional either, though no less impressive. Practically Olympian Paul had thought at the time. And if anyone had been impressed with Bette Davis’s smoke rings in the 40s they only needed to witness what a Thai lady in her forties could do with a cigarette.

    Not to mention a string of razor blades!

    And when the seductress on stage used a delicate part of her anatomy as a bottle opener it had proved a real eye-opener for Paul and his showbiz pals. But all this burlesque behaviour back then had managed to retain an element of decency – well, almost. It was comic, rather than crude, and fairly inoffensive.

    After each trick, Gypsy Rose Chang had received a round of applause, and after her final trick with the Coca Cola bottle, when she changed water into wine of a sort, she had received a standing ovulation. Paul remembered it as outrageous but rather fun. Disappointingly, when he and Andrew finally arrived at their budget hotel in the north of the city, twenty years later, it was as clear as gin the vibe had changed. As the inimitable Ms Davis would have snorted,

    ’What a Dump!’

    After they had de-rucksacked and showered off their journey, he and Andrew headed for the pool to chill out before hitting the town. Andrew drifted into oblivion on a broken sunbed, tired from the travelling. Paul, however, had unwisely remained conscious as he became all too conscious of the type of establishment in which they were staying.

    Surrounding him and his partner was a veritable fat-club of obese sex tourists. European men whose stomachs came out of the pool almost five seconds before the rest of them. Pot-bellied Russians, short on manners and personal hygiene. There was even a sour German, (Paul resisted the obvious gag!), who was so outsized he acted as a wave machine each time he entered the water.

    And that was via the steps!

    He had never seen so many ugly people in such a confined space. These guys weren’t just unappealing they were fucking ugly.

    Or as Paul liked to put it less crudely, fugly!

    Each of these odious, superannuated dogs had a young Thai girl on a financial leash sat beside them.

    It was most unseemly.

    He thought he may put Andrew into the doghouse for booking such a place, but he soon realised it was not his husband’s fault. Almost everywhere they went in Pattaya they witnessed the same demographic. Old, unattractive men cavorting with young unaffluent women.

    Sometimes in effluence!

    Indeed the ocean off of Pattaya’s main beach was deemed unsafe for swimming, the bay being flooded with raw sewage. It wasn’t the state of the current that prevented a refreshing dip but the current state of the ocean.

    It was filthy.

    Paul and Andrew strolled along the once beautiful virgin sand as gangs of drunken Russian louts cavorted with once beautiful virgins amid the sewer purporting to be part of the Pacific. They yelled and grunted like pigs in shit – literally. Paul secretly hoped they’d all go back to the less appealing suburbs of Moscow with a healthy bout of Typhoid fever to replace the yellow one from which they were now suffering.

    Either that or drown!

    He’d begun to feel quite uncharitable.

    Days before he had ignored the fact that one of his most trusted online guides had decided to omit a section on the shithole in which they now resided. He was, after all, after touristic, not moral guidance from such a website. He had considered it traveller’s snobbery and denounced the site for being high and mighty. He now realised they’d probably been right all along. It appeared many of the city’s visitors we’re definitely high and thought they were somewhat mighty. The old adage he’d once heard that good guys went to heaven, and bad guys went to Pattaya, was not an exaggeration.

    He’d recently learnt that Pattaya had been a charming fishing village until the 1960s when 500 American soldiers from the Vietnam War had been stationed at the south end of the beach. They had quite obviously been charmed by more than the seafood and so things took off with a bang. Five hundred of them.

    Despite prostitution currently being illegal in Thailand, there was estimated to be at least 27,000 sex workers in the place, meaning a fifth of its population were at it.

    This was more than apparent when Paul and Andrew hit a back street later that night. They were harangued and hassled like never before. Prodded, poked and propositioned along every pavement. They could not pass a bar without being manhandled by ’ladies’ attempting to drag them into their dens of iniquity.

    There were girly shows watched by burly Poles. And poles draped with burly girls. Rows and rows of the same fat, greasy men lubricating themselves with cheap beer and leering at the desperate teenagers, some of whom who looked as if they were waiting for the number 9 bus to The Strand.

    Though not a strand of decency to be seen.

    They were offered everything under the sun – with anybody’s son. The place was outrageously unappealing. Street after street of prostitution akin to a pornographic version of Monopoly. Only Paul had never witnessed this much rent – not even on the Old Kent Road!

    The city may have been morally bankrupt but it’s financial position much less so. It’s vice dens were making a fortune by putting the wallets of the intrigued, immoral and incapacitated into a vice if their own. The lack of respect was coming both ways. Many of the hookers would have been asked for I.D. to pour a ’sex on the beach’ let alone do it. Paul, from his frequent sojourns east, knew many of the workers to be impoverished Cambodians or North Eastern Thais with little choice but to sell their bodies as casually as picking rice.

    It certainly paid more.

    And from past conversations he knew that to some of them it was an easier task.

    He realised it to be a crazy mixed-up world, and he was quite accustomed to the dichotomies of Thailand. But Buddha knows what it did to these young people’s heads whilst giving head. Perhaps only Buddha knew.

    ’Bugger me!’ he thought, but didn’t say it out loud, fearing someone may take him up on the offer!

    The following day he and Andrew ate lunch at the shopping mall opposite their abode, eschewing the ever-present fumes which choked the city streets. Street food in Asia was normally their thing, nearly always being superior to an overpriced restaurant, but neither of them were fans of a dusting of exhaust fumes covering their noodles. Or a bowl of Carbon Monoxide. Their patience with the place was near exhausted as it was.

    That night, after a smoggy ten-kilometre journey through town they had a brief respite from the filth. Some friends from Spain had invited them over to Jomtien, a more upmarket part of the city. It had been a veritable oasis from the hell-hole in which they were residing. Nice bars, decent eateries. One could at least breathe, and the prostitutes were less apparent or at least more polite. Paul would advise anyone he knew to stay that end of the city.

    Not the end where one got their end away!

    He and Andrew were no angels, but there was a desperation and a sadness to some of the scene which provoked sympathy. They both liked a happy hooker. Indeed, they’d met the woman who’d written the famous book of the same title once. She had come to their show bar on the Costa Del Crime – with tales of Versace and vagina. Rich as Croesus but not in crisis! She had been in control and not controlled. Paul was old enough to know there was a big difference.

    The following morning he set out to find ’The Sanctuary Of Truth’, an apparently impressive teak structure which had been built in the 80s. One of Pattaya’s remaining bits of culture. Other than the penicillin which no doubt abounded in the town. It was meant to be an imposing structure to remind humans of religion and philosophy. When Paul asked Andrew if he wanted to walk to the wooden marvel his partner was quite philosophical on the subject.

    ’No – You go’, he said, ’it’ll be good to have some time on your own.’

    Paul knew he meant on his own. And he knew what Andrew meant. Working, travelling and loving together twenty-four seven was an arduous task – sometimes impeding any ardour! And he also knew that he could hardly be described as easy – other than in the bedroom department.

    It would be good to have some time apart.

    He set out onto the six-lane highway in order to find the truth – or rather, ’The Sanctuary Of Truth’, sadly it wasn’t to be. He was sent in quite the opposite direction by a little git who was peeved that Paul wasn’t using his taxi service. He had opted to walk.

    This had been a bad move.

    He walked the walk but soon realised nobody could talk the talk, as every time he asked for directions he was lead up the garden path. Only there wasn’t a garden in sight. Just an urban jungle  and a shopping mall. He ended up an hour later drenched in sweat and stuck on the wrong side of the tracks.

    Not for the first time in his life.

    It was now noon, and Paul laughed to himself, mid panic attack, musing that it was only mad dogs and Paul Darnell who went out in the midday sun.

    There wasn’t a pedestrian to be seen.

    He soon realised why as the traffic grew worse and he struggled for breath. The temperature had soared and any oxygen was obviously rationed – or perhaps in Pattaya one had to pay for it. He turned around and headed back towards the hotel – he knew to find truth was going to be an impossible task, even with his map reading ability. ’The Sanctuary Of Truth’, in truth, probably didn’t even exist. He knew he was growing bitter, a trait which he did not care for.

    When be arrived back at the fat men’s pool he was drenched in sweat and sporting a badly cut leg.

    ’For fuck’s sake’ Andrew growled, ’there’s always a drama with you.’

    ’No there bloody isn’t’, Paul said in his defence, as blood trickled steadily down his calf.

    ’You look like you’re gonna die!’

    ’No I don’t’ Paul replied, feeling as though he could expire at any second.

    That night, the boys hit the town for their last night. They wanted to see the hole in all it’s filthy glory.

    The ubiquitous walking street was a sight for sore heads. It was a mile-long party stroke orgy, along with some of the best live music they’d ever heard in Thailand. It was raving.

    But it was fun.

    They had gone to the neon-lit dark side and the energy was palpable. Neither of them could help but be entranced by the lewd vivacity which surrounded them. They both had balls whilst holding onto theirs.

    There was more pussy on display than in a cattery. More cock than a rural dawn. With something in between to please, or rather pleasure everyone. The atmosphere was electric but Paul knew they could not be static for too much longer. Tomorrow he and Andrew were taking the bus east, then the boat south, to a small island called Koh Samet. It was apparently where the Bangkokians came to party. It was also a part of Thailand they had never visited – so adventure was to be had.

    But on route back to the north he thought they might stop off again in Pattaya. They couldn’t swim off the beach, or breathe properly, but that was a minor inconvenience. The city’s dubious charms had won them over. Neither of them were ’Snowflakes’ and they were falling.

    It was true Pattaya was a tart – but she still had a heart. Guidebooks could be so judgemental. There was no need to be lonely on the planet when in Pattaya.

    Even though oxygen was lacking in the city both he and Andrew had already decided to head back to breathe in the unique atmosphere. Though perhaps not in the heart of the city.

    After all, neither of them minded a little sin!

    Especially when it was so much fun.

  • Paul woke in the Thai hostel at 6.30 am, or rather was woken at that unearthly hour by the motorway above which he and Andrew had been ‘sleeping’ for the last few days. He went to the floor below to make a coffee for Andrew, a rare occurrence as he was never normally up before his partner.

    Well not in the morning!

    As he rooted through flaxseed, linseed and milk produced from organic rice picked by a chanting virgin, he attempted to blot out the conversation coming from a small group of young travellers. A hotchpotch of wannabe hippies adorned in tie-die garments and designer trainers, seated quite unnecessarily on the floor.

    As he waited for the decrepit kettle to boil he couldn’t resist seating himself at one of the many empty tables and indulge in a spot of earwigging, (whilst pretending to read a pamphlet about Thai Boxing.) The flyer happened to be written in Thai, a language with which he was familiar, if not quite fluent. He could count to ten, order a couple of beers and some crispy pork, but that was about his limit. The hip guys on the floor didn’t notice his pretence, they were too busy being pretentious. Even above the traffic’s meditative roar he could hear everything they were saying.

    ‘The thing is they don’t get us’, one young Englishman was explaining, ‘diversity, acceptance, it’s alien to them.’

    ‘You’re right,’ answered a girl, so Paul assumed, with turquoise hair and pierced everything,

    ‘They are not here. They are not with us. It’s up to us to force them to.’

    Another chap sporting huge wholes in his earlobes through which one could pass a tennis ball chipped in,

    ‘We feel the same. Whenever we try to speak they don’t get us. It makes we unhappy man! Why can’t they get woke?’

    Paul looked for the guy’s partner but he didn’t seem to have one. It seemed he was the we. When Paul were younger he was sure this would have been diagnosed as schizophrenia. But who was we to argue?

    Paul listened to some more of the banality as the kettle noisily attempted to boil Andrew’s water at the rate of a sleeping snail. As he did so he realised the ‘they’, about which these condescending pricks were discussing, was in fact him. Well, him and anyone above the age of forty. It appeared he and his generation were not awake – whereas the colourful group having the pow-wow on the floor were truly ‘woke’.

    Paul had come across the term only recently. Apparently it had come into the popular vernacular via the United States, which he secretly thought was rarely a good thing for any language. It meant being aware of all the social injustices that ‘man’ was ignorant of. Racism, sexism, homophobia – stuff like that. Paul had his own definition of the term, he defined it as the act of being pretentious about how much one cares about a social issue. To make oneself look like a deep thinker whilst wearing Nike sneakers.

    It was bullshit in other words.

    And grammatically incorrect.

    How was it possible for someone to describe themselves as ‘woke’ because they had backpacked around the trendy parts of Thailand? Surely The Buddha would have preferred the word enlightenment. But then what did he know?

    Paul began to get heated, he wished the water in the bloody kettle would do the same, or he felt he might throw a punch at one of the cross-legged idiots to truly wake them up. How rude he thought.

    How superior!

    He was not a racist, a mysogonist, in fact any kind of ‘ist’, other than a narcissist perhaps. But that was part of his job and an element of his character he was in love with, so he wouldn’t be changing that.

    He and Andrew recycled everything possible, quite religiously, and had practically adopted acceptance as their religion.

    He had encountered homophobia all his life and still managed not to judge the fools that adopted that kind of behaviour. That was their prejudice, it was up to them if they wanted to appear stupid. So being lectured to by a group of twenty-somethings who were organically attached to their latest IPhones was anathema to him. He now felt awake enough to start an illuminated punch up with these benighted gobshites on the floor. ‘Woke’ or not, they had probably slept during their carbon emitting long-haul flight on route to Thailand.

    The kettle, having more sense than the patronising children, had finally woken and come to the boil. Just in time to stop Paul from boiling over. He made Andrew’s unorganic coffee, slipped in some artificial powdered milk and left the fools in their circle of pomposity. As he did so he apologised as he ‘accidentally’ tripped over the blue-haired girl’s huge carbon footprint and spilt a little of the brew over the floor, splashing the dickhead with the holes for ears. Well it was easily done, after all, he was barely awake!

    A little later and he and Andrew were taking their regular power walk around the perimeter of Chiang Mai’s old city. They both saw this as a counterbalance to the culinary excesses which would inevitably occur later in the day. Not to mention the ‘Chang’ beer, which was de rigeur on any of their trips to Thailand.

    It was splendid exercise. They railed against modern culture as they walked among the ancient. When they hit the famous Tapae Gate, which had actually been reconstructed in the 1980’s to appear how it once did, Paul couldn’t help but smile thinking of the fools he’d encountered earlier who hadn’t even been thought of back then. They probably had little idea that The Thais had been awake to the fact that it would be worthwhile to hold on to their heritage. They weren’t interested.

    He and Andrew took their lives in their hands as they stepped onto one of the rare pedestrian crossings along the city’s encircling moat. The usual practice was to stride confidently into the road and hope that the speeding vehicles would stop, or at least slow down. It was always a dicey situation. This time the dice didn’t roll in their favour as a huge white Range Rover thingy switched lanes and hurtled towards them, lights flashing. They lurched back rapidly as the car missed them by inches. Paul gave an impolite sign to the driver and shouted ‘idiot’ – or something like that! He regretted his action immediately. One thing he knew from his many jaunts to the East was never to make the Thais lose face. They could go from placid to incandescent at the drop of a chopstick. He worried briefly that the driver would stop and come at him with a baseball bat. They had witnessed a similar scene from their balcony only days earlier. Fortunately the ‘driver’ was in such a hurry he didn’t notice. Only in Thailand, he mused, should one feel truly terrified about confronting someone in the wrong.

    Road rage seemed all the rage!

    After a delicious lunch of Khao Soi, the signature dish of Chiang Mai, which they ate in a non-descript garden for under two quid, Paul and Andrew decided on a massage. They had discovered an oasis of tranquility behind one of Chiang Mai’s stunning temples where they could be pummelled cheaply with no happy ending, other than the one they wanted.

    It had not been a good idea for Paul.

    In fact the ending was almost disastrous.

    As he lay next to his partner, who was groaning with an almost erotic pleasure, all he could feel was the noodle soup making it’s way rather too quickly towards the exit.

    As the old lady with exceptionally strong hands kneaded his lower back his bowels woke. He held on for dear life as she then turned him over, parted his legs and began on his thighs.

    If she wasn’t careful she was in for more than a good tip!

    He turned to Andrew and informed him of his dilemma,

    ’Oh no! I’ve had the drop love!’

    ’Shit,’ said Andrew, not really taking Paul’s mind off the situation, ‘you can’t.’

    ’I can’t help it,’

    ’You can,’

    ’I can’t,’

    ’You can,’

    ’I can’t.’

    His poor masseuse looked most confused.

    ’Relax, relax,’ she intoned gently.

    Not the best advice she could have given at that precise moment. The last thing Paul knew he could do was relax. He held on for dear life, much to his Andrew’s amusement, and sighed with relief when the old girl bashed him a couple of times on the bonce and said her ‘Kop Khun Kha’, The Thai ladies thank you.

    ’Kop Khun Krap’ he replied, the gentlemen’s version, and made straight for the gentlemens. He was just in time as the noodles had now truly awakened. It wasn’t pleasant.

    A couple of hours later and the boys were in a tranquil garden they had discovered in the heart of the old city.

    A small hostel had appeared out of nowhere on one of their ambles, a splendid oasis from the traffic and the ‘Eat, Pray, Wank’ crowd.

    They sat for a couple of hours eating fresh avocados they had bought from the market.

    Meditated on life’s conundrums for a while and prayed for one good night’s sleep.

    Then Andrew painted Paul in watercolour as the latter wanked off lyrically into his notebook!

    Paul couldn’t help but smile.

    Perhaps it was contagious. He knew they needed to make a quick escape from the hostel in which they were staying or they may become ‘woke-ist!’.

    Or worse still – truly ‘woke.’

    Buddha Forbid!!!